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DJI Ronin 4D Made a PRO Camera!?!? Full Review


Now the very first time DJI showed me this Ronin 4D I was completely caught “off ones guard”. It was not something I was expecting DJI to bring out, but the more I thought about it, the more I recognise it actually various kinds of represents perfect feel. Upfront, we have this full made sensor, which is stabilized with this three axis gimbal, and we can also activate a fourth axis with this arm, which is partially mechanical, partially electronic. This is gonna help reduce that Z-axis motion. You know, if you’re walking step in or you’re sitting on a washing machine, something like that.

And also I noticed that there are sensors along the breast, right here, likewise down now on the bottom. And these are the type of sensors that “youre seeing” on DJI’s dronings. And that’s also gonna give it a little bit more feedback on its height and its positioning to further give you better stabilization. Pretty impressive, right? Game changer.

I know you guys dislike it when I say that word, but I want , now this one is the X9 6K, but there’s also gonna be an X9 8k if you’re looking for that extra resolution, but I like the bigger pixels and 6K has plenty of settlement for me. And this also has a dual native ISO at 800 and 5,000, which you can switch to in lower well-lighted environments. And interestingly enough, this whole thing can be detached. So I’m very curious to see what DJI is gonna do with this ecosystem.

Are we going to have different types of heads that we can attach on to now?

Or are we going to attach this camera onto different things like monotones? We’ll view, you can record in H. 264 or PRORES 422 HQ or PRORES RAW And we have your selection of color profiles from REC7 09 to HLG to D-LOG or your own custom look. Now looks like the background is fragment blown out, but since we’re getting over 14 stops of dynamic range on – the 6k sensor, let’s – see if we could do some emblazon pointing occult and recover some of that. Now, when it comes to a camera like this, the most important factor is image quality, right?

So I’m going to be doing a followup video where I testify more of the footage that I was able to get out of this camera. I’ll give you a little teaser. I reviewed the footage looks really good in my opinion. And especially that PRORES RAW gives you tons of flexibility.

So if you’re trying to match all their cameras, I don’t think you’re going to have too many issues, but in this video, I’m going to be focused more on the huge list of aspects that we are getting on this camera.

One of the things I thought was really cool is if you’re in a home like this and you don’t have a fluid head tripod, you could always really mounted this camera down and use the joystick to try to get that nice smooth shot. And look at that shot of Dylan, sitting on a rock-and-roll reviewing he’s cool. Now the sensibility and responsiveness of the joystick is fully customizable. So that took me a little bit to dial into my predilections, but now I’m feeling pretty good with it. Now, me personally, the thing I find most impressive about this RONIN 4D is the amount of pieces they were able to pack into this thing.

And not only that, but just make it very easy to access, even if you’re out hiking in the middle of nowhere or you’re a solo operator.

And speaking of convenience, when I first saw this, I was like, ah, there’s no way they could fit ND filters in now. Right? But check it out. We have ND filters from 1 stop, 2 stop 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, all the way up to 9, every stop in between, which is pretty awesome.

Now I want to get some Slow Mo shots. So let’s look at our chassis rate alternatives, and this is a pretty big chart. So I’m going to go ahead and fling it on the screen.

And with the 8K account, it looks like you could get that 8K raw at 60 chassis per second, but the asterisks on the 72 and 75 frames per second, that mostly conveys it has to crop into an aspect ratio of 239:1. Now looking at the 6k version, we can do 6k full chassis at 48 formulates per second.

We can get 6k 60, but that is also going to require that 239:1 phase fractions. But if we cultivate into that Super 35 mode, it looks like we could get 96 makes per second, or 120 with that wider characteristic rate. But let’s say I truly want to shoot 120 makes per second. and I wanna use the full sensor. Then I’m going to have to drop down to 2K PRORES 422 HQ.

And it also looks like there’s a few restraints depending on what kind of media you’re going to be record onto. Now, this is the pro SSD. And this little thing here is actually an entire terabyte, which is pretty impressive, but this is going to give you no restrictions, but you can actually remove this module and use a C fast express type B, which is gonna give you a majority of your alternatives still.

And there’s also this USB C port right here where you can plug in an external SSD and record straight on to that, which is gonna to be the most budget friendly option. But it’s also gonna have “the worlds largest” limits due to limited write quicken Now, I speculate one of the big X ingredients is what kind of lenses are you able fix onto here?

Because the space up now on this gimbal is fairly limited.

So right now this is a DL Mount and this attaches and detaches kind of like an EF mount. These are the lenses I’ve been using so far, but the selection is pretty restriction. I entail, there’s a 24, 35 and 50. There’s also a 16 mil prime, but that is not a full frame lens.

Now I did query DJI if they were planning on expanding on this lens line up, but they haven’t been able to tell me much. So we’ll have to wait and see for that. But to switch out the Mount is actually really easy.

You don’t have to use any shaft or anything like that. There’s a locking pealing right here and the whole mount actually just came off and this is a E prepare and there’s also a M prepare that I’ve seen so far.

And an M mount actually does sound pretty interesting because if you’re looking into some moderately compact lenses, there seems to be some good options there. Now this is Sony 16 -3 5 F 4, and it’s a somewhat compact lens.

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And I can go ahead and slip that LIDAR back on and to poise it, we get to skip a few steps because it’s pretty symmetrical. So I’m gonna go ahead and start with a tilt and we’re gonna slide this all the way back. And this just tells me that this is pretty much as big of a lens I can throw on it.

It is a little bit top ponderous because I have this LIDAR in here. And frequently if you employed a focus organization down now, it will help balance out the top heaviness, but the motors can compensate for this. So if I tilt the camera to the left, I can see that it’s front ponderous. So let’s go ahead. Slide that back a little bit.

And I make right around there. So now I’m gonna go ahead and get this fired up.

And I was actually surprised that I’m able to control the lens once electronically. It doesn’t compel the focus gears and machines. If you’re trying to run some manual lenses, you exactly mountain this down now and push it in.

So it’s pretty straightforward. Let’s go ahead and try to balance the fourth axis and it tells me, I merely have to turn this top knob counter-clockwise and formerly I get it centered, I should be all balanced. And this will likewise tell me if I need to adjust my tilt or wash as well. So quite straight forward process balancing this. So I like that.

And now we are officially switched over to these Sony E attach. Now DJI really gave me this list of lenses that are compatible, and I’m sure they’re gonna add to it as they experiment out more lenses. But it’s interesting to see that there are some lenses that it is necessary to use a counterbalance with. So I’m curious to see how that all works in, but what’s cool about this LIDAR system, is that you can kind of turn any lens into an autofocus arrangement and program it in is pretty straightforward.

And one thing I would love to see is some sort of rig or poise that will hold this nice and securely on there in case you want to attach a big old-time lens on here.

And that probably means you can’t use it in gimbal mode, but if you’re building owners operator , not every single project you’re ever going to shoot is gonna be shot from a gimbal. So maybe if you want to throw an Angenieux zoom lens on now, that would be an option if there was a nice way to support it.

And then that’d be also a good way to use it in handheld mode. Now, yeah, you can go ahead and turn off all the stabilization and fasten everything in place to get more of that handheld type of feel. But I don’t know how much I rely putting a ton of weight on this gimbal.

And there is also a little bit of toy even when things are locked in.

Now, most tripod slabs likewise seem to cover the bottom sensors, but the Z axis seems to still be fairly stable, even with that sensor extended. So I don’t think it’s a big deal, but maybe someone can design a slab that will leave an opening for those sensors, or maybe like a VCT style plate where, you know, part of the mounting happens up front. And part of it is happening to the back and you can merely drop it in. Now, let me go ahead and present you super cool feature.

Number 38, these controls come off and then I can go ahead, attach them onto this external check and I have full camera see. So let’s pan it over to us. Hello, over there. I told you, there’s a great deal of cool features in now. You know, you show up, you have a long day of shooting out in the sunlight and you’re privately hung over.

You know, you exactly adjusted the camera up on a tripod, go back to your car and really control this thing remotely. And it’s a pretty serious monitor extremely 1,500 Nits so you can brighten this thing up and up to 20,000 feet of communication. Now, of course, that’s gonna be completely unobstructed, but still that’s like over three and a half miles! Loved that this is integrated into the whole method. Now I certainly want to get myself a Force Pro that’s the thing that originates it so you can literally move around and the camera gimble will join that motion.

They attained it for the Ronin 2, but it also works on now. And also if you’re super fanciful, you can get the Master Wheels for the Ronin 2, which is also compatible with this. So, many ways to control this thing. Now, my biggest question is how much is this thing going to cost? Now, as of right now, I has got no idea, but they have told me that they’re going to try to make it competitive.

All right. So now that we’re filming at night, let’s try to take advantage of this dual countryman ISO.

So right now we’re at ISO 800 or revelation indicator, but you can kind of think of them as the same thing. Let’s accompanying it up to 2,000 , not enough. Let’s sound it up to 5,000 where that higher ISO based starts.

I personally, I’m a huge fan of a neat empty user interface. Last-place thing I want to be doing on rectify is burrowing through the menu, trying to figure out how to got something. And I “think its a” clean-living and simple as it gets. For example, if you want to change the ND filter right here, I can press the touch screen and move through just the way it is. Or if you’re not a fan of touchscreen, you were able to always press the corresponding buttons.

So notice that there’s eight buttons, four on the top four on the bottom. And then let’s say, I want to adjust the hole. I can go ahead and precisely hit that, but then I has the potential to adjusted it to auto and that are able to just allow me to set the showing ethic, but let’s go ahead and go back to manual and left open at F2. 8 Then we have the shutter speed.

Now I’m personally not a huge fan of screen speed.

I prefer shutter angle. If I’m filming videos so you are eligible to long press it and you could change that screen unit over to tilt mode. And now I can dial this into 180 magnitudes and I’m gonna leave it right there. So when I changed my enclose proportions, my shutter move is changing accordingly. And if we go into the menu here, we have our epitome area.

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So we’re on full make, but if “youve had” some Super 35 lenses, we can hop into Super 35 procedure. And then of course there’s specific make frequencies that are only accessible at Super 35 procedure. So you may need to toggle that for some technical concludes. And we have PRORES 422 RAW or H. 264 and then recording I have it on D-log, which is generally what I prefer.

And then let’s go into audio and you could see that there is an internal microphone were integrated into here, which is great for remark. And you can always attach a separate type of microphone and fix that in right there. So adore that. And then we have our display here. I have my false-hearted pigment set.

So every time I punched my showing button, it will trigger the false emblazon. But if “youd prefer” wave assemble, let’s do that. And each time I hit the exposure , now it exactly pops up that motion kind. So I adore that it’s given us all the tools that I demand, but this right here, LIDAR gesticulate form.

One of the coolest things I’ve seen in a really long time.

So here on the right, you can see where I’m focused so I can gather it all the way to infinity. So I’m focused on the background and then I can also pluck it close to me. But Dylan is right there in the middle and go ahead and move left to right Dylan. And you can actually envision right now Dylan’s at the left of chassis. So that’s there and this is the right of frame.

So you can generally get an idea of where he is in focus. Now don’t take a few steps back and you’ll see that the focus moves back here. So if I want to track him, I can only follow my wheel over to him. And then Dylan, go ahead and take a few steps closer to me and see how he moves up. If I want to chase him, I only creating that yellow-bellied one right up to here.

And this is such a nice focus assist tool. And now that I have it on auto focus, you are eligible to literally ascertain the focus chasing Dylan’s LIDAR. And since all the focus data is coming out of this LIDAR, you can be focusing if really dimly ignite environments. And if you look right here, I can also affected racetrack. So this is going to activate the active tracks.

So not only is it focusing on Dylan, but it’s also following him. Now get out of my action, Dylan.

Here, I’m gonna go ahead and highlight myself now and now I can just saunter like this. What’s going on, everybody. Welcome to another video from the best channel on planet Earth, Potato Jet.

I’m just going to walk over here and guess what? I’m still in formulate. And I’m in focus. This LIDAR leads out to 10 meters.

Let’s say I’m not a huge fan of this composition.

I want to go more this mode then I can shift that over and it will brace my outlook generally this nature. Now it’s not hard to lose this active track. If I move fast, then I can. And also I noticed that it’s pretty good at depositing to my face, even though they are I is turning and harboured the back of my honcho. And I’m actually curious what a higher ISO is.

Let’s try 12,800 and let’s see how this reviews. How much noise are we verifying at 12,800? Wow. I don’t know what I’m doing chaps. – All right.

Now let’s take a, close-up look at the camera. Starting now at the 5.5 inch parade, which is huge compared to a lot of other observers. I adore it. It’s nice and sharp.

It’s radiant at a thousand nits. So you can see it outside. One of the best on-board checks I’ve seen on a camera, like what I’m doing here, by the way, with the thoughtfulnes? I’m so clever sometimes.

Oh my gosh.

Wow. Potato Jet, you should run for president. I would vote for myself, so quickly. Can you vote for yourself? If you run for president?

Right now I have it prepared to the top handle with this cold shoe and Scott, some good swivel act going on. And too three buttons back here at one for peaking, one for the lut and one for exposure. So I have this set to false color and going around to the side now, “were having” our menu, a move rotation, which we are able to sounds in. And we also have playback. Now, what I like about this playback is when you press it, it automatically precisely starts dallying the most recent clip, which is what I’m trying to do most of the time anyways.

And then “weve had” buttons lined up on the top and posterior, which will help us navigate the menu and coming up front, we have the LIDAR, which can be removed very easily if needed and is attached with a USB type C cable right here. But there’s also a second slot right here. If you want to plug in the follow focus, which would plug in just right there, but this is DJI’s lens, so it’s all done electronically internally.

Right now, the gimbal is turned off and it’s locked into place. And you can tell because all of these little red shows, but as I swopped them to liberate the access, I can go ahead, slackened everything up.

And now I’m going to go ahead and activate the gimbal and to turn the gimbal on and off is this switch right here. So I’ll turn it back up. I’ll keep it back in follow. And now you can adjust the follow mode. So pan follow the go tilt or FPV mode right here.

And if you merely want to completely fastening off future directions, you time introduced it in fastening state. And then of course we have the influence button and then a lock substitution, which fastens all the buttons, as well as the stroke screen. This button I’m not quite sure what it does, but I don’t think it’s important, but this is what you need to know.

This is how you activate the fourth dimension or the Z-axis. And then made down here is you recenter the gimbal and too the Z procedure, which gets toggled between lock.

If you want it to have the same summit frequently or follow, which will adjust to your meridian smoothly, like if you’re on a staircase. And then of course we want our most widely used boasts right here on the hand, grasps where our hands are naturally going to rest. And we can also lock it if we don’t want to inadvertently bump it. And if we double tap, you recenter the enclose and we can also present regarded the fastening, the direction of the gimbal. I got to say, I desire this lever right here, which is a quick way to adjust the direction of the treat and it locks into place.

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And we also have a button to check our showing. And this is to select the target for active trail or auto-focus, there’s also another bar down now, which you can release. And this is another safety release right here, which will totally taken away from the handle.

And then on the inside now, there’s another button where you can press it in the hold to quickly activate sport mode. And then let’s flip over to the right handle, same type of deal with the lever to slot the handle.

We have a record button, right where your thumb would rest. Now exceed instead of having the joystick, I have this focus rotate, and this is really cool because I have it on auto focus right now. So if I threw my hand out front, you can actually see this dial turning, right? But if it focuses on the wrong thing, I can actually stop it and magnetism it and displacement it into a different location if it is necessary to. And then once you “lets get going”, it goes back into autofocus.

So really cool nonsense. And then here, we also have focus peaking. Now I did once mess up and try to activate the peaking and actually cut a shot mid make during a job.

So that was embarrassing. I had to go, let’s sorry everybody.

Can we reset? I trimmed the camera and get the slate back in there time don’t be an idiot like me and try not to mix these up and the state button. This will toggle you between your ND filters, your ISO or your aperture, and you can use the wheel to adjust those sets. And one of the little things that’s kind of cool when you’re switching the ND filters with this is you can actually feel it click into sit as you’re switching the filters. So this can be something that’s smooth or it moves on its own or has a little tactile snap feel into it.

So pretty cool nonsense. And on this area, if we redouble press the provoke, it will trigger it. The Z axis and this back likewise can be removed the same way the other side can.

And this button right here, it will be to toggle the auto-focus on an off. So I believed they did a really good job position all the most important buttons right here on the grip.

So we don’t really have to let go of it so much better. The right side of the body’s pretty straight forward. You off the port where you attached to display, you have the mic and headphone Jack 3.5 region and HDMI, which is a full-size, and DC in for ability. Then this right here with the antennas is the wireless video transmitter.

So this will allow me to see the video feed on that wireless monitor. And I cherish how clean it is and how it’s just integral and sandwiched in between the artillery and the body, doesn’t really get in the way with cables and all these things jiggling off the camera. So I love that. And DJI likewise told us there’s going to be another optional module, which will give us XLR inputs and SDI output.

So that may be interesting for some of us.

And all of this is gonna be powered off of one TB 50 battery. You may have some of these things. around, like if you have a Ronin 2 exactly slides in like that. Now this accuse centre is pretty cool. It just opens up like that and you drop in a battery to charge.

It also has three other slots, so you are eligible to have four billing. And also what’s cool is that these fee course faster than they drain, as long as you’ve got one on the charger and one on the camera, you are eligible to exactly fling flop them and you could literally leave your camera on as long as you need to.

Cause the same also exits for the batteries for the external wireless observer and between this and the TB 50, you can pretty much power. All the things that we’ve talked about and this all does charged off one outlet. Now, DJI did, let me take this pre-production camera out to one of my work, which was really nice, because frequently prepping and compressing for one of those shoots can be such a nightmare.

I represent, you got your big age-old gimbal with its own battery and its own charger and a camera with its own battery and its charger and remembering posters. And then you got your focus unit, which has its own batteries and the monitor that needs its own battery and then D-Tap to dominance, the transmitter and the receiver. It’s just, you forget one thing and you’re totally screwed, but this was just grabbing the camera wireless monitor if you need it. And the chargers. And that’s pretty much it, you are well aware, I used to do a great deal of these enterprises where I had to do a lot of traveling for, and they required a camera with a great deal of decide, a good codec, good colors.

I was stabilized on a gimbal. And if this was around back then I would have totally use it because we had to lug around so much gear. Every time we had to move to the next metropoli, we had to pack everything up and passage with it and unpack and reset everything up. This would have unquestionably formed my life a whole lot easier. Now of course, any professional camera needs to be able to record for an hour straight without overheating.

And yes, I did do my incubator assessments at a hundred, three magnitudes Fahrenheit. It did totally fine. Now I got to hand it to DJI for their first pro camera of this type.

They’re really coming out of the entrance hot and they’re really not containing much back, but anyways, let me know if you have any questions about this Ronin 4D down there in the comments, and I’ll try to respond to a knot of them in the follow up video, but for now I’m going to try to go get in the shadow because I am obviously get some sunburn I should have worn sunscreen, which is yeah.

I have like such the worst tan look at, oh my God,.

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